Intro To Tailoring: Cut & Construction

Gentlemen let’s talk about the importance of a suit’s cut and construction. These two points are probably the most distinguishing elements between an off-the-rack suit, from a more superior tailored garment. Like any investment, you need to be able to see the return your getting. In the case of high quality suiting, your return comes in the form of a perfectly-fitted suit with a stylish cut, as well as a garment that will last for many years to come. You will look your best, and be able to keep doing so without worrying about your suit breaking like cheaper alternatives.

Cut

The cut (also referred to as style) of the suit is largely characterised by how the garment fits to your body, however is also influenced by fashion trends and cultures. The most common styles are generally categorised as being English, Italian or sometimes American.

For example, English tailors have traditionally focused on quite structured suits which include shoulder pads, stiff canvas and pleats. On the other hand, most Italian suiting can be distinguished by its unstructured look with less lining and padding.

At The Bespoke Corner our clients garments are predominately constructed in the Italian style with less structure and fine canvassing as we find it more stylish and functions better in the Australian climate.

Construction

Once the cut of the suit is perfected, you know you’ll be looking great. The next key is to ensure that the suit will have a long life after being worn to work and various other events. The biggest difference in the construction of modern suits is whether they use fusing or canvas.

The traditional way to construct a suit is using horsehair canvas underneath the fabric of the suit (this sits between your fabric and jacket lining). The canvas is initially cut to your shape, and from there the chosen fabric is stitched to the canvas. The canvas is used to hold the shape of the fabric and overall suit and keep it from deforming over time. The natural canvas also helps the fabric drape to your natural shape, leaving a perfectly stylish look.

The latter method of fusing is used by bulk production fashion companies as it allows for an easier and cheaper construction. An interlining is glued rather than stitched onto the fabric to provide the shape, although keeps the suit stiff and in an unappealing shape. As the lining is glued on the suit generally wears much quicker especially after multiple times at the dry cleaners.

The Bespoke Corner  suits are constructed using half canvas with the option of upgrading to full canvas. We stand by our products and are extremely proud of the quality we produce. Our suits also include unique features such as underarm sweat patches and unique hand stitched Milanese button holes.

We would love  for you to see see our suits for yourself, please come into our Paddington showroom for a whisky.

– Rami Mikhael, Head Tailor of The Bespoke Corner.