There’s no doubt that tailored clothing should be a non-negotiable for any gentleman. A well-fitted wardrobe solidifies your approach to business by demonstrating attention to detail and self-respect for your appearance. Beyond this approach, there are minor details applicable to different body shapes we need to note in order to present our very best.
Below I discuss some key details to keep in mind depending on which body shape is applicable to you.
The key goal for shorter gentlemen is to strive for an elongated appearance. It is therefore essential that all clothing be very fitted as any over proportion that lead to items looking too large, will over exaggerate your lack of height.
In order to achieve this look I would suggest the following:
- Steer clear of wide ties and lapels – keep things slim
- Opt for slim shoes and avoid capped or rounded toes
- Never have a break in your trouser
- Elongate the look of your torso with a peak lapel and lower button stance
- Choose side adjusters, a belt will cut up the look and make your legs look shorter
- Use vertical patterns like stripes to extend your look
As a taller gentleman, we are looking to do almost the opposite of the shorter man discussed above. We don’t want to dwarf over our clients or colleagues, instead be more approachable. You should look to opt for:
- Lighter colours – darker colours generally create a narrow look, which we don’t want
- Medium width lapels and ties
- 2 button single-breast and double breasted suits
- ‘Horizontal’ accessories such as a belt, striped tie and pocket square
- Round-toe shoes
- Wide-spread collars to accentuate width
Unlike larger guys, we want to take the attention away from the accentuated shoulders and upper body athletic men have. We can create this more proportioned look by:
- Staying away from peak lapels and pocket squares – both bring attention to the upper body
- Opting for two-button single breasted jackets – the cut works naturally with the V-shape
- Wearing a pointed collar rather than a wide spread
For the larger gentlemen, there are some simple considerations you can make when dressing that will go a long way to a slimmer look. These include:
- Wear a pocket square – the attention moves to your chest rather than stomach
- Steer clear of patterns – keep your clothing simple
- Avoid skinny lapels and ties, proportions need to be neutral
If you have any questions or want to chat about a new suit or garment, please get in contact. Our Sydney showroom has an extensive range of Italian fabrics, ties and pocket squares. Our bespoke and made to measure service in Sydney works around your schedule.
Miles Wharton – Founder – The Bespoke Corne